Cookshop-around

Note to restaurant publicists worldwide: the best way to generate buzz for an opening is to not open at all, or at least fake an opening once or twice.

Such was the genius behind the launch of the Five Points spin-off Cookshop on Tenth Ave. After a long over due, water leak, electricity shortage situation, Cookshop is finally open for business. And what business is that you ask? Why, of serving solid, locally grown food for reasonable prices, and with a slaphappy smile. All that goodness should make you happy, and for the most part it does.

The restaurant has a bar with enough nooks for a lingering drink, some bar tables for curious walk-ins, and then two dining rooms in the rear. One that overlooks the street through floor-to-ceiling windows, and the other that looks into an open kitchen. Which is more exciting? The searing streets of Chelsea or the searing of a Maine Diver scallop. Either way, wherever you sit you'll be sure to see the big chalk board with a list of the owners’ favorite farms. (How cute.) Not that supporting local farmers isn't a wonderful thing, but do we all need to know about it?

Apparently enough people do because the place was packed on a Wednesday night at 8pm. Service is prompt and attentive. Menus, water, and bread all appear within minutes of our waiter’s rendition of the nights special. Though the salted grissini are the perfect meal precursor, perhaps they should focus on finding a good bread farmer, otherwise known as bakery, to supply some more tasty bread. (Note, there is no excuse for bad bread at a good restaurant). We quickly forget this letdown as our fried market vegetables arrive. Tempura fried and served with a honey yogurt dip, we find little to complain or rave about, for it's hard to go wrong with a deep fryer, and they even threw in a tasty plum for good measure. (Since when is a plum a vegetable?)

The rest of the menu read like a remix of Five Points. A grilled octopus, a salad with pecans and blue cheese, as well as some little bites on the side of deviled eggs and the like. The entrees are classified by cooking method, such as sautéed or rotisserie, and there are, of course, sides. The scallops with celery root mash and mushrooms were tasty enough, and the waiter arranged an agreeable vegetable plate for the non-meater at the table. She was offered a choice of main course accoutrements, an accommodation that some restaurants are want to make.

The tables around us seemed to be enjoying their food enough, devouring plates of Roast Duck with Wheatberries, and Grilled Whole Porgy with Spiced Fries. Yet, the biggest winner at our two-top was by far the white cheddar grits with frizzled onions (divine). My suggestion would be to set up your shop at the bar, order a quartino of vino, and devour a plate of grits. You should leave a little room for dessert, especially if the Blondie Ice Cream Sundae is representative of the other offerings.

So while the PR buzz will surely keep the seats packed for the next few months, you're better off waiting until the crowds cool off, and the kitchen heats up.

Cookshop
156 Tenth Avenue
at 20th St.
212-924-4440

Comments

[panasianbiz]

I stumbled across your blog while I was doing some online research. I totally agree that there is no excuse for serving bad bread. I expect something different, and, yes, fresh, when I dine out. I could eat packaged, mass-produced rolls at home!

[Mark Vane]

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[rofovnifo]

Hi

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G'night

[Stevan]

The open kitchen sounds like a nice touch