Quotation marks have invaded restaurants. They are not new to the menu scene, but chefs have become increasingly accustomed to using quotes to describe the inspiration behind their food or to insinuate the preparation. Though the more experimental the chef, the more frequent his/her use of punctuation will be, it is nearly impossible to eat out without being accosted by punctuation marks!
It therefore came as no suprise to find Dayboat Sea Scallops "Benedict" and Lobster "Steak" on the menu of David Burke and Donatella. The double d's (David and Donatella) teamed up to open this modern American restaurant over a year ago in an attempt to bring a little whimsy to an otherwise stuffy block of 61st off of Lexington. It seems to have paid off with a crowded dining room, even in a lunchtime seating that I was fortunate enough to attend.
Burke is a pioneer of Culinology, the marriage of science and food to improve the nutrition and flavor of mass-produced foods. Exhibit number one was the Pretzel Crusted Crabcake and Shrimp Tempura. Though I couldn't identify whether the batter was Herr's or Rold Gold, the result was crisp, crunchy, and delicious. Less successful was the union of bubblegum and whip cream in, you guessed it, bubblegum whipped cream. Fortunately it arrives as an accompaniment to one of the better, and most famous, Burke creations - the Cheesecake Lollipop Tree. No quotation marks required, these lollipops grow on a silver "Pop Tree" with names like Cherry Pink Cashmere, Chocolate Tuxedo, and Toffee Top Hat. Coated in chocolate and toppings with a creamy cheesecake center, these bite size poppers are candy at it's best.
Though you'll be tempted to skip straight to dessert, a number of other creations are worth a visit - the Crisp and Angry Lobster "Cocktail," (served cocktail style), Dover Sole with Zucchini Chips and Tomato Mint Butter, and the Lobster "Steak" with Curried Shoestrings - to name a few. Butterscotch Panna Cotta is another dessert to try, or better yet clip the recipe from the New York Times and practice culinology at home. If you'd rather just eat like a culinologist, you can order the cheesecake lollipops, as well as foie gras and smoked salmon ones, online at Gourmet Pops.
Either way, David Burke and Donatella is worth the pricetag - the average entree is $35.00!
You can quote me on that.
133 East 61st Street
(212) 813 2121
Nice blog!
Perhaps you'll enjoy my food blog.
http://www.foodblog05.blogspot.com
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