Studies show that moving is one of the most stressful situations in life. If this is true then imagine the stress involved in not just moving around the corner, but relocating one of the top restaurants in Manhattan? You better make sure that it is a smooth transition, which is prescisely what Marcus Samuelsson seems to have accomplished as he settles into his second month at the "new" Aquavit.
Having never been to the original location, everything about Aquavit was new to me. From the expanded cafe in the front, to the soaring narrow bar that leads to the uber modern dining room in the rear, Aquavit seemed comfortable in its new skin. I on the other hand was less than comfortable. Though seated at a spacious four person booth, the two of us floated at our table, too far from our food, each other and the wall.
If an expensive prix fixe is second to awkward seating on your discomfort list, then Aqauvit is not for you. But if $75 sounds like a deal after begging to pay $150 at Per Se, then read on. After an amuse of a uninspired tuna tartar tomato soup with coriander, we were offered a choice of three breads. Spreading the salty dill butter on my Swedish flat bread and basic pumpernickel roll did little to improve this sub par foray into eating carbs. I was waiting to be wowed.
And we were! My lobster roll, finely diced lobster salad wrapped tightly in paper thing apple slices was one of the best and most beautiful dishes I have eaten all year. Dotted with trout roe and dipped into a pistachio yogurt sauce, each bite was better than the next. My herring loving friend was pleased with her sampler, but not so pleased when her accompaniments, though advertised as "necessary" arrived after nearly all the brightly colored bowls of meaty fish had been eaten.
The waitstaff seemed nearly as uncomfortable as our seating arrangement. Not appearing at all, our wine glasses ran dry, and then magically appearing when least expected or least needed. The food, however, makes up for the less than perfect service. The signature brioche wrapped salmon was so light and flaky it quickly made its way from plate, to fork, to a quick dip in truffle ketchup, and into my mouth. Each bite a brief reminder of the kitchens dedication. The venison was equally delicious, but not half as exciting. What makes Aquavit such a success is the ability to not only describe innovative food, but actually deliver the same creativity to the table, and make it actually taste good.
Still not convinced? One bite of the lemon pepper cheesecake and you'll be a believer. If only all moves were this delicious.
65 East 55th Street
212 307 7311
Below is a great film and food event in NYC!
Thought I would share...
Dinner and a Movie
Invite friends for a three course dinner, including wine service, and a movie at Yann De Rochefort's Suba restaurant, a contemporary Latin restaurant and lounge on the Lower East Side, rated by Time Out New York as one of New York City's Top 100 Restaurants. THINKfilm will present an exclusive screening of Matt Mahurin’s West Village restaurant documentary, "I Like Killing Flies". Matt will also join us for a Q&A!
When: Tuesday May 17th, 7 - 10pm
Where: Suba Restaurant - 109 Ludlow St Lower East Side, NY 10002
Tickets: Log into www.foodbanknyc.org and click on the CANS Film Festival link to purchase tickets
Posted by: Jenny | May 12, 2005 at 01:24 PM