If you haven't heard about Sushi of Gari opening on the Upper West Side, then you are probably living under a rock. If you haven't made a reservation yet, what are you waiting for?
The most anticipated arrival to the neighborhood since Barney's Coop, Sushi of Gari has arrived and with it the official arrival of the UWS as a premier dining destination. For those who once trekked to the quiet corner of 78th and York to sample sushi heaven, don't expect the same tranquility and calm that graced the original Gari. Rather, raise your voice to be heard above the din of Wuppies (west side yupsters) chatting loudly over omakases in a bright bustling room across from the Museum of Natural History.
With an expanded menu, Masatoshi Sugio offers the sushi-phobic a chance to order from a carefully selected range of appetizers and entrees. From seared foie gras to octopus ceviche to a $45 Mishima beef, the menu is intriguing. We were intrigued enough to forgo a straightforward sushi feast in favor of trying the pan roasted short ribs and the tuna tartar to start.
The service can best be described as tough love. You won't be given a sushi menu unless you ask and you won't be told the specials unless you inquire. Tough would also accurately describe the little short ribs and dry would be fitting for the yuca fries on the side. The tuna tartar was equally uninspiring, though the nori crisps on the side beat out the yuca fries entirely.
The disappointment in our appetizers faded after one bite of the fried oyster roll. Deliciously sweet and crispy with a dab of Gari's signature blend of tartar sauce on top, this roll melts in your mouth. The special spicy scallop roll was equally divine, as was the kanpachi and scallion. Our sushi pieces on the side were silky, sweet and delicately placed on sushi rice, that was good enough to eat, even for those that have sworn of white carbs.
We watched the sushi chefs plate towering delicacies and gently brush sashimi platters with a mystery glaze, dreaming of what the omakase that evening might include. Perhaps Gari is best enjoyed on an expense account, like the one that the three suits in the corner who still lingered as we left seemed to be using. When money is no object, the omakase is surely the best choice, but otherwise skip the main menu, saddle up to the sushi bar for superb fish, where at least you can watch the chefs prepare all the food you can't afford.
370 Columbus Avenue
(212) 362 4816
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