A well known restaurant critic once told me that most "real" critics visit a restaurant at least three times, always disclose any biases and his own personal rule, order what you don't like. Though I usually have neither the time, money or stomach to abide by these rules, the stars seemed to align this past Saturday at Landmarc in Tribeca.
Opened by yet another husband and wife team, Marc Murphy and Pamela Schein Murphy, Landmarc has received significant press for their extensive wine list of half bottles. An idea that Pam, whose parents apartment I remember most vividly from many Christmas Eve parties, said was inspired by a restaurant in Paris (Le Bouchon de Francois Clercs). I thought perhaps it was just because the mini bottles looked so cute and went down so well.
Cramming our way into the three deep bar, I glanced at the six top in the corner that had been the site of my first meal and watched servers float upstairs to the second floor, where I had enjoyed a lovely summer supper as well. Now on my third visit, we squished into a plush booth, along the wall.
Though the room was definitely hopping, the light from above cast a wide shadow over our table encasing us in a private space where movie debates and menu discussions could be hear above the din. We upgraded to full bottles and I perused the menu for new dishes, or those new to me. If you're starting light, the chopped salad gets jazzed up with hearts of palm, beets and celery, while the frisee salad with shrimp and capers is sinfully salty and delicious. I opted this time for the frisee and lardons combo, eagerly accepting the waiters offer of an optional poached egg, which oozed yellowy goodness all over my plate.
Others indulged in zucchini and mozzarella fritters, fried calamari and a dark pot of mussels, which come paired with your choice of sauce (provencal, dijoinnaise, chorizo) and size (small or large). I dipped my fork into every plate retrieving smokey bites of cheese, crispy rings of calamari, and saving up for a bread dip, the action created by sopping up the mussels broth with a crusty nob of bread.
Main courses brought steaks, hanger and strip, as well as crispy fries. A lamb shank was particularly tender and delicious, while my salmon with sausage and white bean ragout was full of smokiness. We passed around small bowls of haricots verts and mixed mushrooms, prepared, served and priced the way that side dishes should be.
Decafs all around appeared alongside a complimentary spread of mini desserts, a chocolate mousse, tiramisu and creme brulee were the best. Five mini ice cream cones, topped with perfect single scoops disappeared next to the basket brimming with mint green cotton candy. We waved a thank you to Pam, who was now in the midst of enjoying her own steak dinner with friends, as we devoured all the desserts, it was the polite thing to do.
Though there many be mini wine bottles and brulees, there is certainly nothing small about Marc Murphy's food, which explodes from his kitchen, landing on your table with speed, consistency, flavor and subtle depth, all while he periodically works the room overseeing the service, the regulars and the newcomers.
With a formula that seems to be getting better every time I return, now all they need is a bigger bar.
179 W Broadway
212-343-3883
Comments