JC Report: Strap Ons

Strap Ons

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Nothing makes us happier than freeing our toes from winter captivity and stepping out in a new pair of sandals. And this season the choices are endless. Some are trad and true, while others are downright daring, or shall we say baring.


Stedge?

In the year of hybrid shoe wear (the "shootie"), the sandal has not escaped unscathed. Its most ingenious combination comes from Christian Louboutin, in a style that's both a wedge and a stiletto—hence, the "stedge." Part sculpture, part rapture, this patent leather and cork combo undulates from toe to heel in a red wave that would stop even Moses in his tracks. $835 at Neimanmarcus.com.

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NYMag.com: Brown-Bag It

Brown-Bag It

                 

Messenger bags are always an easy fix—they free your hands and let you walk without worry—but most are too schoolboy for our tastes. Fortunately, the Hayden-Harnett Barnard Crossbody bag looks as good as it feels. The vintage-inspired saddlebag comes in black or brown leather and will last for a few seasons to come. So embrace your inner Laura Ingalls Wilder this summer, or rework the everlasting equestrian trend with a pair of riding boots come fall. Can you say giddyap?                           

$325 at Ravinstyle.com.                           

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R29: Jasmin Santanen

Ice Age

Jasmin Santanen's name is Finnish, her education American, and her place of business is Parisian. But it's precisely this sort of global intersection that makes the designer's new namesake collection so universally appealing. "All three cities play an important part in my work and influence my designs," says Santanen, who studied at Parsons School of Design in New York and went on to work in Paris with Yves Saint-Laurent and Hermès before embarking on her own venture.

"When I first started, I was thinking of something more casual and day-to-day," recalls the designer. "But then a client who was fond of my evening-wear came to me asking for more feminine pieces…these are now the trademarks of the line." Her attention to these details and various couture traditions of designing comes full circle in her first ready-to-wear collection for spring/summer 2008—an intricately woven tapestry of medieval references and modern silhouettes, all finished in a palette of clean, cool whites, blues, and warm creams and gold.

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"Living in Paris exposes me to many medieval ideas, but my main point of reference this season came from Elizabeth I," says Santanen. "She had such a natural elegance, but she was also a warrior." This balance between grace and power is directly reflected in an embroidered cotton tank dress that's both sexy and sobering. And even the finest of lace skirts is precisely cut to fit the waist for a sharp silhouette. (More)

R29: Star Sign

Star Sign

So many fashion tales start the same way: Stylist makes a bag for her friends, everyone starts asking where they can buy it. Suddenly, a label is born. And while Ulrika Lundgren's story may be familiar, her namesake label, Rika, is anything but formulaic.
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"The first collection of bags I did were handmade by a saddle-maker in Spain," recalls Ulrika. "And it was such a success with my friends—a mix of stylists and models—I developed the ready-to-wear collection shortly after." (more)

 

NYMag.com: The Great Gatsby

The Great Gatsby

Bb080411_198_2Drawing inspiration from the twenties is nothing new in the realm of fashion, but flapper dresses and Brooks-like bobs don’t always translate that well. However, Rachel Comey’s Gatsby heel speaks our language and then some. It’s a classic Daisy herself would wear. But the high-society parties aren't required; we’re thinking with jeans, dresses, maybe even a tailored short. Comey has an ability to modernize an old-school style perfectly, this time by combining linen and leather, and mauve with tan. Mix and match with your wardrobe.                             
$265 at MickMargo.com                               

Buy it online

                           

NYMag.com: All that Jazz


All That Jazz                 

 
The only thing more unappealing than the thought of having to bare your toes too early in a season is that your best alternative is a natty pair of sneakers, or worse yet, the boots you’re attempting to transition into spring. But F-Troupe has you and your digits covered with their take on the lace-up shoe: a Fosse-esque version done in casual canvas. Maybe you’ve avoided the whole oxford look until now, but we’d encourage you to give this interpretation a go, especially since we’re loath to see all those floral spring dresses with flip-flops. The thirties flavor of these works so much better, and you’ll definitely look like you’re Puttin’ on the Ritz, without spending a million dollars.                                

$121 at Tobi.com                   

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WWD Scoop: Reflections

Wwdscoop_reflections

JC Report: Menswear Openings


Eastside Shopping: New Openings in Menswear

Roberto da Carrara shop, exterior

In New York, we've got three new men's stores on our retail radar this week: a haberdasher for Dapper Dan, a flagship store for non-sneaker freakers and an East Village boutique with international reach. read more »

      

CITY: Retail Rivalry

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Metro: Following the foot prints

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Interview: Candy Colored Kisser

Interviewmarch Lookofthemonth

R29: James Millar

Light Bright

While New York Fashion Week was abuzz with Jonathan Saunders' first Big Apple showing, we couldn't help but get excited about another Scottish designer who was also crossing the pond—James Millar. Unfortunately, you won't get invited to his presentation, or see his clothes at Barneys, because the young Celt was here working with Saunders, not showing his radical collection of knits…yet. "I have learned so much from working with Jonathan," says Millar. "I've learned that talent is not enough, and that fashion is always seeking something new…it takes great resilience to achieve longevity."

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These are fighting words for the 25-year-old designer who grew up outside of Glasgow, knitting with his mother. "I remember my mum teaching me to hand knit when I was nine—just squares to make a patchwork quilt," recalls Millar. "But I only really embraced the medium during my MA; that's also when I started playing with the fair-isle genre." That "play" is what eventually led to his riotously wild 2008 collection, inspired by seemingly disparate elements, whose only relation is their contagious energy and hedonistic bias. Obvious references to Ziggy Stardust and glam rock are evident in the androgynous quality of his sweaters, though the unisex element isn't always intentional. "It was more an evolution of my ideas," explains Millar. "Some I know are for one particular sex, but others become assigned to a sex when they're complete depending on what looks best." This outlook is also a result of his time spent in the fashion department of Dazed & Confused magazine. "I'm very style 'led' and don't view myself as a true designer, more a hybrid designer-stylist." (more)

Interview: Clear and Present

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JC Report: Maximum Length

Maximum Length
Conservative chic makes a sexed-up comeback

Maxiskirt3 Hemlines are like the economy, so much so that the correlation between the two has been coined "the hemline theory." Dresses and skirts rose to thigh-high proportions in the '20s and the '60s, just as the stock market took a turn for the better. And now, with the economy on shaky ground, the Spring/Summer '08 runways saw the comeback of the maxi skirt. More than just a signal of a conservative market, however, this influx of long skirts seems to be a declaration that showing less leg might actually have more of an impact.

Perhaps no other item of clothing has a more directional history than the skirt. The most accurate use of the garment in taking society's temperature was in the '60s when the mini became the icon not just of fashion but also of freedom. Supposedly created on King's Road by designer Mary Quant, the short hemline was popularized by Courrèges and reached rage status on the likes of Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy. So does the proliferation of floor-sweeping styles this season mean that feminism is passé? Or rather, have we reached a point where conservative is synonymous with chic? (more)

R29: Reyes

Reyes_1REYES

The Last Days of Disco (the movie, that is) may have been the jumping-off point for designer Jose Ramon Réyes' fall 2008 collection, but we couldn't help but feel nostalgic for a little Barcelona as well when we saw the drill waiter jackets and military pea coats. Either way, director/writer Whit Stillman would have been proud to see his disco-loving prepsters wearing Réyes' most ambitious collection to date. The designer has developed a new edge since we first met him back in spring 06, replacing his pinafores and seersuckers with asymmetrical dresses and satins. "Sportswear has always been a big part of my aesthetic, but I wanted to step it up and make it more dressy," says the designer. His first steps into this evening-ready category included Studio 54-esque tunics in magenta satin with pleated metallic drop waists and a satin pin-tuck maxi pinafore, which proved he was still remaining true to his roots. The best moments came when he combined a little day with night, as with a little cropped military jacket paired with a matte jersey cowl-neck dress, a satin top with mustard bootleg trousers, and a rugby striped dress with a perfect boyfriend blazer.

Top looks: A mustard-colored wool drill waiter jacket with navy drill bootleg trousers; a plum matte jersey raglan sleeve dress.--Meredith L. Fisher

Huffington Post: Fashion Week Reviews

Huffington Post: Yigal Azrouël


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To the backdrop of underground subway scenes (shot courtesy of budding film director Chiara Clemente who sat front row with her chic sikh beau, Waris Ahluwalia), Yigal Azrouël showed a collection that confirmed his transition from jersey boy (as in the fabric) to city man. Asymmetrical dresses in a grungy plaid and oversized sweaters screamed L train, while the jersey chiffon goddess dresses were town-car only. But like a 6 train on a Friday afternoon, some looks--a double jersey "ondulé" skirt and silk habatai metamorphosis blouse (huh?)--were a bit too busy for our tastes. His year-old men's line was more coherent, focusing on layered weekend-worthy styles by pairing chic track pants or loose-skinny tuxedo trouser (yes it's possible) with exposed pocket sweaters and military-inspired outerwear. Top looks: For her, high-waisted skirts à la Alaïa, and a swingy but still shapely jacket...a masterpiece unto itself. For him, it was washed leather pants, with button-down shirt, navy ribbed collar coat, and Yigal for K SWISS retro classic sneaker. (more)

R29: Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang

00190m If anyone can bring back ripped stockings and cutoff jeans, it's wunderkind Alexander Wang, a designer who continues on his meteoric rise this season by winning the coveted Ecco Domani Fashion Fund award and launching a capsule collection of handbags. The 24-year-old designer still looks like a baby, but his fall 2008 collection was what after-school specials are made of--rebellious young teens. Heavy-metal zippers and biker chic boots marched down the dark and steamy catwalk (literally, there was smoke rising off the runway) paired with well-tailored baggy trousers, and (trend alert!) a wool flight suit.

He brought back the '80s with nylon parachute pants and oversized blazers, but his talent lies in his ability to draw from the past and update it for the present. "These clothes are definitely made for cool girls," said Teen Vogue editor Amy Astley, a sentiment echoed by his entourage of risk-taking, front row fans--Arden Wohl, Genevieve Jones, and Fabiola Beracasa.

NYMag.com: Tote Recall

Tote Recall

Bb080129_198_2 Now that you’ve relegated your “I’m Not a Plastic Bag,” to “I’m a gym bag on Sunday nights when nobody can see me,” your under-sink collection of plastic bags has grown to Guinness-worthy proportions. Neiman Marcus has the answer with their ecochic alternative. They’re reusable (check!) and reasonably priced (you get five for the price of one), and they come in two seasonally appropriate trends—floral and monochromatic (bound to match something you’re wearing). They also fold easily, can carry the same weight as two plastic bags, and come with their own storage case. Fortunately, saving space and the environment is always in fashion.

$40 at Neimanmarcus.com.

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R29: Paris Match

Paris Match

Just because the Euro could eat the dollar for breakfast, doesn't mean all French design is out of reach. Grab hold of these two French handbag designers who are making it easy and relatively affordable to ride out the accessory recession, with designs that are fully functional but far from just basic.

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The first comes from a 24-year veteran of the accessories business—from Lamarthe, to Paloma Picasso, and even a stint with Hedi Slimane at Dior—Stéphane Verdino's premiere namesake collection has been in the making since he was 16. "The direct inspiration for the line was the design of the 20th century, the modern art, and, of course, some of the fashion brands that I admire, like Margiela and Comme des Garçons," says Verdino. "When I did my first line, I wondered what kind of bags I could do for those brands, and the first collection was born out of that spirit." The result is a collection built around a few classic shapes, like the Cabas Vertical (translation: the perfect tote) or the 48 Heures (translation: overnight, not overstuffed). "When you decide to do a product with your name on it, you really have to be honest and true," he says. "And my style is pure, radical, and with no concessions—I think this is the biggest quality for the people who like my brand." Each authentic style comes in a variety of the softest leathers (vernis, cuir, and perforé), and colors that range from neutral to neon, so the size of the handbag statement is up to you, not the other way around. (more)

R29: Trovata

   

Just Opened: Trovata

It seems like yesterday—fall Fashion Week, to be exact—that French footwear icon, Repetto, swept in for a 90-day affair in the back room at Meatpacking denim emporium, Earnest Sewn. But more than three months later, another Fashion Week is around the corner, and Earnest Sewn is on to its latest pop-up conquest—Trovata, which opens today.

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It's the same drill—the 420-square-foot space in the rear of their Meatpacking flagship is transformed into a mini shop-in-shop for a short period of time, offering both camps' loyalists a chance to experience their mutually complementary Americana goods. "I met [designer] John Whitledge a few years back at Trovata's first show in New York City," says Earnest Sewn's Scott Morrison. "And much like our line, Trovata draws inspiration from a traditional American lifestyle." In addition to the brands' common aesthetic, Whitledge revealed a coincidental link between them, as well. "My late grandparents owned a farm in Kentucky, and they were neighbors with the Sites family [the renowned denim manufacturer and wash house]," he says. "I couldn't believe it when I found out that Earnest Sewn worked closely with the Sites in product development—it gave me an even stronger appreciation for the heritage and details in their designs." (more)